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Planting guidelines for shrubs and trees

A properly planted tree or shrub will grow faster, live longer and be more tolerant of adverse conditions than one planted incorrectly. Here are some general recommendations to follow.

Always pick the plant up by the root ball never by the trunk or stem (can cause damage to fine root hairs).

Allow added topsoil for foundation plantings or raised beds to settle for a while, or impact it without using excessive force.

If the the purchased tree or shrub cannot be planted immediately, put it in the shade protected from wind and water it frequently. This does not apply for bare-rooted trees which should be planted as soon as possible: see below.

Trees can be planted almost any time of year as long as the ground is not frozen. Late summer or early fall is the optimum planting time in many areas for most trees. This gives the tree a chance to establish new roots before winter arrives and the ground freezes.

Water plants thoroughly before (trans)planting.

Dig a hole twice at least as wide as and slightly shallower than the root ball and the sides of the hole sloping towards the bottom is ideal in most situations. This puts the backfill soil where the new tree roots will grow and leaves a base of naturally firm soil for the root ball to rest on.

Roughen the sides and bottom of the hole. When digging in (heavy) soil the sides can become slick especially if the soil is somewhat wet. Slick sides can act as a physical barrier to root growth and moisture movement.

Plastic pot/container
Be gentle but firm when removing the container. Hit the bottom and sides of the container until the root ball is loosened. Make sure to protect the foliage by laying the tree on its side. If the roots are root bound or girdled, you should disturb the root mass before planting.

Fiber pot
Cut the bottom of the pot. Make sure to protect the foliage by laying the tree on its side.

Ball & Burlap
Remove the string or wire than holds the burlap. It is unnecessary to completely remove the burlap. Gently separate circling roots on the root ball. Shorten exceptionally long tree roots and guide the shortened roots downward and outward.

Bare root
Planting bare-rooted trees is a little different as there is no soil surrounding the roots. Most importantly, the time between purchase and planting is a more critical issue. Plant as soon as possible. When purchasing bare-rooted trees, inspect the roots to ensure that they are moist and have numerous lengths of fine root hairs (healthy). Care should be taken to ensure that the roots are kept moist in the period between purchase and planting. Prune broken or damaged roots but save as much of the root structure as you can.

To plant, first build a cone of earth in the centre of the hole around which to splay the roots. Make sure that when properly seated on this cone the tree is planted so that the 'trunk flare' is clearly visible and the 'crown', where the roots and top meet, is about two inches above the soil level. This is to allow for natural settling.

Soil that was removed from the hole should be used to refill the hole. Loosen and break up any clods of soil before backfilling. Mix some peat moss and bonemeal with the backfill. Do not add fertilizer compost or manure.

Place the root (ball) in the hole. Be careful not to plant too high or too deep. The planting depth should be such that the plant is exactly the same depth after transplanting as it was in the container. Graft unions on trees (looks like a knot at the base of the trunk) should be planted at soil level.

Fill in around the plant with soil until the hole is one-third full. Firm the soil around the root ball, however, be sure not to use excessive force since soil compaction should be avoided.

As you add soil to fill around the tree, lightly tamp it down, or add water to help settle the soil.

Before finishing the filling process, make certain the plant is straight and at the proper planting depth.

After planting, construct a ring of soil 2 to 3 inches high to form a water basin at the outside edge of the hole (plants in beds probably will not require a water basin). This permits water to go into the root zone rather than running off the surface. Water the plant thoroughly (soak) after planting, to eliminate air pockets around roots. The water basin can be removed after the plants become established.

If a tree (or standard) needs to be staked, do this only for the period needed to be able to stand on its own. Make sure that it is not too tight nor too loose; do not attach wires around the trunk. The stakes should be buried at least 1.5 feet underground to provide ample support.

It is recommended to apply a 3-inch layer of mulch over the planting hole. Leave a small circle at the base of the trunk open. The mulch will help maintain moisture and reduce fluctuations in soil temperature. The mulched area should be expanded as the plant grows.

Water frequently for approximately 4 weeks or until the root system starts to establish. Check every few days but do not water again until the soil has dried – this may take up to a week or more depending on conditions and soil type. If the newly transplanted tree or shrub is watered every day or every other day, it will not have a chance to dry out and the roots will start to rot. Watering in this fashion encourages the roots to grow out and down in search of moisture, allowing the tree or shrub to become established more effectively.

The following applies only to planting caliper trees and shrubs and trees that are in fibre pots. When watering after transplanting, it is imperative not to over water. It is best to water deeply once and then allow the soil to dry out several inches down before watering again.